The History of Þingvellir National Park
Þingvellir was the first of Iceland’s national parks to be designated. Its contribution, both physically and culturally, was formally recognised in this way in 1928. In this article, we’ll take a look at this important stop on Gray Line’s Golden Circle Classic tour and find out what happened during the key periods of its history.
The Alþing
The name Þingvellir translates as “assembly plains” and it was where the Alþing general assembly convened from 930AD to the late 18th century. In the very early years of Iceland’s settled history, the chieftains sent a representative to Norway so that he could find out about the way they created laws and managed their society.
His name was Úlfljótur and the first ever law to be passed by the Alþing is named in his honour. The site that was chosen – the one we know as Þingvellir – was actually land confiscated from a criminal. Þórir Kroppinskeggur owned land in Bláskógar. This unsavoury character was convicted of murdering his servant and losing his land was part of his punishment. His loss was Iceland’s gain.
Þingvellir’s physical characteristics
In those days, the physical characteristics of a site were considerably more important. Þingvellir ticked a lot of boxes: it had an area of flat and gently sloping land but it abutted a steep cliff which would provide shelter from the elements. There was also good pasture nearby, plenty of firewood and, located beside the river Öxará, it also promised a dependable source of clean water.
The Alþing assembly site had clearly defined limits: two lava mounds at Kastalar, Lake Þingvallavatn and to the west and east, the Almannagjá fault and Flosagjá and the faults that connected to it. If you’re planning to snorkel in the crystal clear waters of Silfra Fissure, that’s a little further to the east.
In an attempt to supply fresh water, the Öxará river was diverted in the early days into the Almannagjá fault so that it flowed closer to where the Alþing met. Flooding could be problematic and the shelters used by the lawmakers had to be relocated to drier land; you might be able to see a couple of early ruins: one on the west bank of Öxará facing the Þingvallabær residence and the other in the middle of the meadow to the north of the church.
The Lögberg
If you had the right to attend an Alþing meeting, then you also had the right to speak at the Lögberg. Today this culturally significant spot is marked by the presence of a flagpole where the Icelandic flag flutters in the wind. Historically, the Lögberg would have been the place where the newly passed laws would have been proclaimed for all to hear.
This was also the place where speeches were delivered and news of important events was communicated to those present. Any decision that was made was discussed and reported here, making this a pivotal spot when it came to the matters that shaped a developing nation.
In 1262, the Lögberg ceased to be used – long before the dissolution of the Alþing. It became redundant when Icelanders swore allegiance to the Norwegian throne. As you can imagine, records from the 13th century can be a little sketchy, so the precise location of the Lögberg is actually not known. It’s possible that it was situated on the flat ledge on Hallurinn – where the flagpole is. But it’s also possible that it could have been higher up within the Almannagjá fault, making the flagpole’s position symbolic rather than geographically accurate.
Socialising at Þingvellir
Aside from its role in law making, Þingvellir also had a wider role to play in Icelandic society. For two weeks each summer, Icelanders streamed into this place. Unless you lived close by in south or west Iceland, it was a long and arduous journey that could take days or even weeks. Iceland’s mountainous and sandy landscapes didn’t make transport easy back then, when you’d have had to come on foot or on horseback.
Nevertheless, farmers accompanied their chieftains, while merchants and artisans such as tanners and sword-sharpeners would converge in the hope of making plenty of sales. Entertainers lightened the atmosphere as brewers and food sellers would keep everyone fed. The unemployed sought work and the destitute begged for support.
Þingvellir’s role in Iceland’s journey to independence
By the 19th century, Iceland had been transferred to Danish control, but there was a move to seek self-determination. Though the Alþing hadn’t been held at Þingvellir since 1798, the place retained a cultural importance and therefore, nostalgic for its role in hosting the old law makers, it was a logical progression that this should be a focus for those hoping for independence.
It was fitting, therefore, that when King Christian XI of Denmark formally proclaimed Iceland’s first constitution, he would do so at Þingvellir. The idea of restarting an Icelandic Alþing gathered momentum, though when it happened – granted an advisory role only by the Danes – this would be in Reykjavik. Nevertheless, nationalists hoping for self-rule and full independence focused on Þingvellir because of its cultural and historical significance to the nation.
Þingvellir’s geology
Of course, Þingvellir’s geology considerably predates human interaction with the area. Þingvellir National Park is located right over the Mid-Atlantic Ridge that bisects Iceland. This is where convection currents in the magma below the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly pulling them apart.
From above, the land appears like a giant tear or clumsy rip in the landscape, and this rift extends below water too as you’ll see at places like Silfra Fissure. But of course that’s only part of the story. During the last Ice Age, Þingvellir was shrouded by a kilometre-thick layer of ice. Lake Þingvallavatn started to emerge about 12000 years ago, with water accumulating in a natural depression.
Meanwhile, volcanic activity was taking place beneath the surface of the glacier. About 10000 years ago, an eruption led to the formation of a shield volcano called Mount Skjaldbreiður. Another formed south of Hrafnabjörg and lava collected where it could find a route forward.
Around 3000 years ago, a fissure opened up and lava once again covered the area. It created Þjófahraun. Another eruption, the last in living memory, took place 2000 years ago to the north-east of Mount Hengill. The area’s volcanic system is considered dormant rather than extinct so there is always a possibility of a new eruption, even after such a long gap.
It’s not hard to see why, throughout its almost 100 year history, Þingvellir National Park has been held in such high regard by Icelanders and has held such fascination for visitors to the country. No other place in the country has played such a fundamental role in shaping the nation, both physically and culturally.
Why not book yourself on a Gray Line Golden Circle Classic tour to see this incredible place for yourself and walk in the footsteps of those who have shaped Iceland’s past – and future? You can learn more about the history of Þingvellir National Park in the excellent visitor centre and as you walk along the Almannagjá gorge, imagine what it would have been like for those who came before you all those centuries ago.